The moment finally arrived after eager anticipation, and our 2-day gorilla-trekking experience at Bwindi Impenetrable Forest turned out to be a tale of two stories…

Day One – trekking the Bitukura family

Day one caught us somewhat unprepared given that 2009 was a particularly busy year and consequently something had to fall by the way-side and for us this was physical fitness! Our trek began easily enough on relatively flat and open terrain, but this was only the pre-cursor as we were simply walking to the point where we would have to enter the dense forest. It was here that two things became clear. First, we understood why Bwindi was called Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the foliage was incredibly dense. Second, we understood why the gorillas were called mountain gorillas – as we found ourselves navigating slopes of 60 degrees or more! It was definitely a trek and a half.

Fortunately we didn’t have to trek for long as we found the gorillas within an hour, but it was nevertheless an intense trek. Then came the next surprise, which perhaps reflected our naivety more than anything else. Somehow we had envisioned that after some hard trekking we’d break through into a beautiful open clearing where the gorillas would be seated in a neat circle, inter-acting among themselves and posing for photographs when required. Reality was somewhat different. On this day, we’d found the gorillas in a particularly dense bit of the forest on a very steep incline. The dense foliage meant that, despite the Bitukura group being a family of 13 gorillas, we could see no more than one gorilla at a time. And it also meant that you had little rest during this hour as you were fighting to keep your footing on the steep incline, battling through the foliage as you looked for the other gorillas, supporting yourself by hanging onto vines and undergrowth and then of course trying to actually photograph the gorillas.

Despite all this, we were brimming with excitement when we caught a glimpse of our first gorilla, a silverback. Admittedly, conditions that day were simply not ideal for photography as the gorillas were often shrouded by the foliage, and we also had limited room for movement and hence little scope for composition given the dense shrubbery and steep inclines. So we had to resign ourselves to enjoying and appreciating the moment – seeing these magnificent creatures in the wild. Our highlight of the day: an adorable baby gorilla up a tree.

Tip: try to find out in advance which gorilla family you’ll be trekking. The Bitukura and the Shonji families are actually several hours away from the main lodges in Bwindi and you’re therefore advised to find accommodation closer to where your treks will actually take place.

Day Two – trekking the Mubare family

After the first day of trekking, we weren’t sure if we had the reserves to trek for a second consecutive day. But fortunately we woke up somewhat rejuvenated after a restful sleep!

Day two was a much easier trek for us despite it being a longer one – this was at least in part due to the fact that we were mentally prepared, and partly also because the terrain was easier and our group as a whole maintained a slightly slower pace.

And when we finally found the gorillas, this time we found them in a relatively open space and a gentler slope! As sod’s law would have it, A&T had left some additional photographic gear behind after day one as we thought that conditions would make it virtually impossible to switch lenses or to try to carry more than one camera. Day two was a photographer’s dream and we managed to get some exceptional clear views of the gorillas with room to move around for angles and composition.

But the highlight of the day (and the trip) was yet to come… Chun was busily shooting Kanyonyi, a 14-year old blackback gorilla in the group (they tend to become silverbacks around the age of 15), when it suddenly got up and started walking straight towards him… and didn’t stop until his muzzle was pressed up against Chun’s cheek. Kanyonyi sniffed him and looked him up and down for a good couple of minutes, checked out his camera equipment, pressed his nose and mouth against the side of Chun’s face again before finally moving off.

Unforgettable, adrenaline-charged, emotional and simply magical… words simply can’t describe the incredible experience. Kissed by a mountain gorilla – this will be one memory of Uganda that A&T will remember for a lifetime.

Also read our related post, Exploring Uganda.

Of course no safari to Uganda would be complete without visiting the home of the mountain gorillas in Bwindi. This was A&T’s first gorilla-trekking experience – does it live up to the hype and expectations? We trekked twice in Bwindi and we can imagine that individual experiences can be vastly different. For A&T, gorilla-trekking alone made the trip to Uganda more than worthwhile. We knew this during our second trek. We knew that even if we did not see any big game on our game drives during the rest of our stay in Uganda, we would go home happy with memories to last a lifetime. But is this because our experience was unique? Perhaps. But perhaps unique experiences on these gorilla treks are more common that we think. Read more about this our article, ‘Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi – Kiss of a Mountain Gorilla’.

The one failing in Uganda is the state of its roads. There are some stretches of extremely poorly kept roads which seem like an extended network of pot-holes and crevices, where you’re sometimes reduced to driving at no more than 10-20kmh. It’s believed that efforts are underway to repair some of these roads as there’s increasing recognition in the Ugandan government of the value of the tourism trade to GDP. In the meantime, chartered flights may be the solution to avoiding some of these roads (scheduled flights to key safari destinations in Uganda are still relatively rare).

So what’s game viewing like in Uganda? We’re probably not yet qualified to be any sort of authority on this, given we only managed to cover Queen Elizabeth National Park and Lake Mburo. But our initial experience was that big game was relatively more sparse compared to Tanzania and Kenya. But it may be a case of knowing where to go, as we had an incredible boat ride experience in the Kazinga channel that links Lake Edward to Lake George. The channel was simply teeming with birdlife, elephants, buffalo, crocodiles and hippos. The water is still which still makes it possible for excellent photography opportunities. And, on a boat, you manage to get a lot closer to the birdlife than you normally do in a 4×4. Truly this is an experience not to be missed for anyone, but perhaps even moreso if you’re a bird lover. We enjoyed it so much we repeated the boat trip the following day. We met a wonderful couple on this boat trip who also came back for seconds, one of whom was a wildlife biologist and their excitement at being immersed in this ‘National Geographic’ experience was infectious.

For would-be philanthropists in Uganda, there is simply no shortage of opportunities to make a profound difference. We were very privileged to meet several exceptional individuals on this trip who have already, in their own way, accomplished so much in Uganda. It was humbling to hear their stories and certainly A&T would like to explore further how we and our future clients could all contribute to some of these incredible projects. We will be writing more about this in due course.

Certainly a return to Uganda is already in the cards and we’ve heard fantastic things about some other parks in Uganda, particularly Murchison Falls and Kidepo National Park. As we gradually unwind our backlog of work, we will update our blog with more photos and details of various aspects of our trip. Stay tuned!

Photography:-
‘Children of Africa’ featured photos
Gorilla trekking article and photos

And of course you get the whole experience to yourself. A balloon safari is a very personal experience, and you will get a viewpoint that simply can’t be beaten. For photographers, the option of a balloon safari opens up the possibility of unique photo opportunities, and is therefore highly recommended for anyone who wants to get the most out of their safari.

Serengeti Balloon Safari

How it Works

Anyone can go on a balloon safari but it is imperative to book in advance. Balloon safaris take place during the early hours of the morning, before you head out on your day of game viewing. You will be picked up in your lodge and driven to the departure point where you can see the whole team including the captain set-up the hot air balloon. Seeing all of these will certainly make you even more excited and you will be guaranteed amazing photo opportunities. You and your group will be up in the air by the time the sun rises, the best time of the day for game viewing when activity is at its height.

You’ll usually be in the air for about an hour, which is plenty of time to admire the view and take some amazing shots. You’ll be carried on the air in complete silence and will observe the animals below as they begin their day. You may even be able to get lower to the animals for a close-up experience that cannot be beaten. The views are spectacular and it will surely leave you breathless. Being up on the hot air balloon across the plains of the Serengeti National Park just brings the excitement and appreciation to a different level and you will love every minute of it.

After the balloon safari, you will be served champagne breakfast in the most amazing setting you can ever imagine!! I will not go through much detail and let you experience it yourself.

Photography Considerations

Balloon Safari Photography

A balloon safari clearly introduces new problems when it comes to taking photographs. One thing you will have to remember is that you cannot simply stop the balloon like you can a vehicle. So although the movement will be a lot smoother, you will still be constantly moving. You will therefore need to be aware of your shutter speed to prevent blurring. Also remember that a balloon safari typically begins at dawn and therefore the initial part of your flight will be under fairly dim lighting conditions.

A good telephoto lens (400mm to 500mm) sounds like a good idea to get in on the action but be aware of camera shake from the movement. Also there are opportunities for spectacular panoramic and wider angle shots from up above hence we would recommend having a wider zoom lens on a balloon safari. We found that a 70-200mm F2.8 works very well and have a second camera equipped with an even wider 24-70mm.

Clothing Considerations

Balloon Safari

To make the whole experience even more fun and comfortable, we highly recommend you bring the following with you when you go on a balloon safari:-

• Hat – there will be hot air blowing on top of you so make sure to bring a hat to protect your head and hair from the heat.
• Light Jacket or fleece – it can be really chilly in the morning so make sure you dress up warm

Selous Game Reserve

Getting its name from Frederick Courteney Selous, the British explorer who inspired the fictional character Allan Quartermain, Selous Game Reserve is one of the biggest in the world. Situated in the south of Tanzania, it is a rugged, isolated wilderness that was granted the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982 for its stunning array of wildlife. Here you will find more African wild dogs, elephants, hippos and crocodiles than anywhere else in Africa.

Compared to the frequently visited northern parks, the Selous is truly wild. You are unlikely to bump into anyone else on your photo safari, and if you take a walking safari here then you’ll get an experience like no other. Highlights include the 100-metre-deep Stiegler canyon, and the mighty river Rufiji.

Mikumi National Park

Situated near Morogoro, Mikumi is the fourth-largest national park in Tanzania. It borders Selous Game Reserve, and together the two form one giant ecosystem. With a similar savannah landscape to the Serengeti, you will find incredible rock formations here as well as huge amount wildlife. Lions, giraffes, zebras, elephants and buffalos are present in large numbers, as well as over 400 species of bird. Between May and November is the best time of the year to head here on your photographic safari.

Ruaha National Park

The Ruaha is the biggest national park in the country, and is situated right next to the Selous. It is home to the Great Ruaha River, which provides excellent opportunities for wildlife viewing. There are a huge number of elephants here, about 10,000 in all, and well over 400 species of bird, including kingfishers, sunbirds and white storks, making it a fantastic destination for photo safaris.

Tarangire National Park

Tarangire is only the sixth biggest national park in Tanzania, but it offers some superb game -viewing opportunities. Situated near to Lake Manyara, it is easily accessed from major towns like Arusha. It is divided in half by the Tarangire River, which provides great opportunities for game viewing as it becomes the only source of water for animals during the dry season, attracting them in huge numbers. A massive elephant population is another huge draw for visitors going on a photo safari. Its terrain comprises floodplains, hills and wide, open grassland dotted with acacias and baobab trees.

Walking Safaris in Tanzania

Many people dream about going on a safari one day. Heading out to the open plains of Africa and seeing wild animals in their natural environments is one of those experiences that is hard to beat. But there are many different types of safari. Most of them involve travelling in a 4×4, which allows you to get right up to the action and cover great distances. But for the ultimate experience you should consider taking a walking safari.

Walking safaris in Tanzania provide a unique way to see Africa’s landscape and wildlife. Without being restricted by the confines of a vehicle, you are totally exposed to the elements. 4×4 safaris are great, and they allow you to see and do so much. But walking really places you right into the middle of the experience and increases the atmosphere of your surroundings. Simply put, there is no other way to get to see nature so close up. You are suddenly at their level, walking the earth as they do, and it can be a thrilling experience.

There can be something quite unsettling about walking across the African bush with the knowledge that nearby you are surrounded by wild animals. But this is one of the thrills of the experience. Of course, there is also that little element of danger involved, but you will be accompanied by a qualified, armed ranger at all times. And besides, most animals will not come too close during your walking safari and will give you plenty of room. So although it may feel dangerous, you’ll be completely safe

Of course, you have to be reasonably fit and healthy to go on a walking safari in Tanzania as you can’t just sit down and be carried. It may be hard going, and sometimes a minimum age of 16 is imposed. But you’ll travel at a comfortable speed, and you’ll be able to spend time stopping to enjoy the smaller points of interest on the plains. In a vehicle you could never get close enough to watch the ants and the dung beetles going about their business, but on foot not only will you be travelling at a slower pace to allow you to notice all these things, but you can get right up close to the action.

Tanzania Walking Safaris

One of the main attractions of a walking safari in Africa is the personal nature of the experience. You won’t bump into other tourists during your adventure, which can sometimes be frustrating. Instead, you’ll get the whole place to yourself, and it will feel like you are the only people there. The quietness can be incredible, and there will be no sounds of machines to spoil the trip – just you and the natural surroundings.

And when you see the animals it will be an experience like no other. It is difficult to describe the thrill of coming across a giraffe ambling through the forest, or a herd of elephants bathing in a watering hole just twenty metres away. Watch, observe, and take your time to appreciate the fact that you are here in their territory now, far away from the comforts of civilisation.

The best places for walking safaris are in the quieter parks of Tanzania where you are less likely to come across other tourists. These could include the mighty Selous Game Reserve or the remote Ruaha in the south of the country. Here you will likely be the only group for miles, enjoying your own special experience of one of the most magical safari trips that you can imagine.

Safari Guide

A qualified guide will be hugely important during your photo safari to Africa. Not only will your guide provide you with the safety and security of having someone who knows the country and the culture, but he or she will also provide you with a source of knowledge that can help to bring your safari adventure to life.

Safety

As beautiful and incredible as many of Africa’s creatures are, you must remember that they are also potentially dangerous. Elephants may look peaceful and graceful whilst walking across the plains in a herd, but if they feel threatened in any way then they can soon become dangerous. If you are in a vehicle then the threat will be minimal, but it is still important to have a guide who knows when to keep a sensible distance and when to steer well clear.

It becomes even more important to have a guide during a walking safari. Most guides will in fact carry a rifle on such a safari, usually as a deterrent but also for protection if needed, and they will know what to do should a situation become dangerous. Guides don’t just drive you around like a normal tour guide – they are experts in animal behaviour and they know how to act around the animals you will encounter.

Knowledge and Education

Your guide is more than just a person to take you from A to B. When you go on a photo safari, your guide will know the area like the back of their hand. They will be able to tell you all about the plant and animal life that you encounter, the history of the area and the local people. This will provide you with far greater insight into the country you are travelling in, and will provide you with so much more during your photographic safari.

Best Animal Spots

You may think that it doesn’t take much skill to spot an elephant when it is coming straight towards you. But there are plenty of occasions when your guide will be able to spot lions, leopards and other well-hidden animals well before you get the chance. They are trained to pick out the animals from great distances, and you simply won’t believe how sharp their eyesight can be. A safari wouldn’t be much fun if you didn’t see any animals, so a guide will prove crucial here.

Photography

When you go on a photo safari, your guide will be more than just an expert in the animals and the local area – they will also be a professional photographer with extensive experience of shooting landscapes and wildlife in Africa. They will be able to provide techniques to get the best shots, as well as taking you to the best spots for photos and providing you with expert advice to help you get the best results from your trip. They will constantly be thinking about opportunities for getting the best photo, just like you, so you can be sure that you are on the same wavelength.

What is Malaria?

Malaria is an infectious disease that is caused by protozoan parasites. However, it is much more commonly linked to mosquitoes, which are the carriers of the disease. Every year there are an enormous 350-500 million cases of malaria across the world, which lead to between one and three million deaths, most of which are in children. Malaria occurs around the world, but the fact that 90 percent of all malaria deaths occur in Sub-Saharan Africa shows just how much of an African problem the disease is

How is malaria spread?

Anopheles mosquito

Malaria is spread through the blood, but it is almost always spread through infected mosquitoes. Only Anopheles mosquitoes can carry the parasites that cause the disease. They get these through biting an infected person, and then transfer it to a new person upon biting them. If you avoid blood contact with someone who has malaria and you don’t get bitten by an infected mosquito then you cannot catch the disease.

What are the symptoms?

The symptoms of malaria can range from slight chills and light-headedness to a fever, nausea and flu-like symptoms. In the most serious cases it can lead to a coma, convulsions and death. Even after treatment malaria can stay in the blood and reoccur throughout the infected person’s life. If you ever experience any of these symptoms when you are in Africa or when you arrive back home then go to the doctor immediately. A simple blood test will confirm whether you have the disease, and the quicker you get treatment the better.

Protection

Malaria is an unpleasant disease to get, but there is no reason for you to worry as long as you take precautions. These include taking anti-malarial drugs up to two weeks before you leave for your photo safari and throughout your time in Africa. These drugs are developing all the time as resistance to certain drugs increases, so make sure you check with your doctor about which is the best option for you. Two of the most commonly used are the antibiotic Doxycycline, which is taken in a daily dose, and Larium, the trade name of Mefloquine, which is taken in one weekly dose. However, Larium can have some unpleasant side effects to always check with your doctor before you start taking it.

As well as taking anti-malaria medication, the most effective way to prevent malaria is to wear insect repellent and long sleeves, especially in the evening when mosquitoes are most likely to bite you. At night you should also sleep under a mosquito net. These are cheap and highly effective, and if you douse it in insect repellent before you leave it will prove even more of a deterrent.

Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

Quite simply, the Serengeti has it all. Vast amounts of wildlife, huge open plains, a mix of campsites and luxury lodges – any trip here will provide you with the complete experience. This is the Africa of the storybooks, the romantic wilderness where huge wild animals walk the plains. It is also the setting for the great migration of the ungulates, so head here in July and you will be treated to one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on earth and one of the top safaris you could experience.

Ngorongro Crater, Tanzania

Located near to the Serengeti, Ngorongro Crater is another of the stand-out safari destinations in Tanzania, a country that has been blessed with its huge number and variety of wildlife. Whereas the Serengeti is made up of flat plains and rocky outcrops, Ngorongro Crater is a vast volcanic crater that was formed during a huge eruption millions of years ago.

The size of the crater is simply awe-inspiring, and the formation of the land is worth seeing in itself. But in addition to this, the crater has become home to up to 30,000 animals, boasting the greatest concentration of different animals anywhere in Africa. So if you want to enjoy one of the top safaris around by combining an enormous variety of animals with a truly magnificent landscape, this cannot be beaten.

Kruger National Park, South Africa

Kruger National Park is the location for the best safaris in South Africa, and one of the best places on the continent. At 7,332 square miles it is a vast area situated in the east of the country, and is one of the biggest game parks in the world. A pleasant year-round climate and the reduced presence of malaria combine with the 147 species of mammal – more than anywhere else in Africa – and over 500 species of bird, to make this a wildlife extravaganza that is a top photographer destination throughout the year.

Okavango Delta, Botswana

The Okavango Delta is the biggest inland delta in the world, and takes up a large portion of Botswana. This vast wetland area provides a very different safari destination from the dry savannah, but there is no lack of animals. You’ll find all the main animals here, as well as over 400 species of bird, and the landscape is truly unique, constantly changing and always exciting. Take a boat trip from island to island and travel silently through the water, observing the animals close up in this unique natural habitat.

Masai Mara, Kenya

The Masai Mara is the smaller Kenyan sister of the Serengeti in Tanzania, as it is essentially one large area that spans the two countries’ borders. This is one of the safari destinations for spotting wildlife, and it attracts a huge number of tourists every year. It is very well developed and easy to access, and its vast populations of all the major animals adds to its draw. The stunning savannah is a wonderful backdrop for photographs, especially at dawn and dusk. And if you head here in November you will be able to witness the Kenyan side of the great migration of the ungulates.

Ngorongoro Crater

Located only 112 miles away from Arusha, Ngorongoro Crater is very easy to reach for people heading there on a safari. And in terms of wildlife you will be spoilt for choice when you head to the crater as you will be able to find all of the ‘Big Five’ animals in one location. Lions, leopards and elephants are all present in abundance, as well as nearly all of the other exciting animals that you could hope to see on a safari. One really special treat are the back rhinos, because the crater is one of the only places in the wild where they are still breeding.

Ngorongoro Crater is also situated relatively near to the mighty Serengeti, meaning many people choose to visit both of these wildlife havens during a single safari for an experience that is hard to equal. One of the most amazing events at the Serengeti is the migration of the ungulates, including zebra and wildebeest, so head here between July to September to witness this incredible spectacle.

But it’s not just the animals that attract visitors to the crater. When you go to Ngorongoro Crater you will also almost certainly come face to face with the tribesmen who live in the area. Dressed in brilliant colours and always armed with their spears, a photo of a tribesman will look great on your wall at home – but don’t expect to take a picture for free as they’ll expect a few dollars for the privilege.

Masai tribe at Ngorongoro Crater

The area is also incredibly important for its hominid remains. Nearby to Ngorongoro Crater you can visit Olduvai Gorge, the site of the oldest homo habilis remains ever found on earth and the cradle of humanity. The crater highlands also offer great hiking opportunities, and if you are really adventurous you can head to the active volcano, Ol Doinyo Lengai, during your trip.

Ngorongoro Crater certainly lives up to its name as one of the natural wonders of the world. Head here on a safari and you’ll get to experience so much more than just the animals. The spectacular scenery, the people and the sheer scale of it will mean you’ll have some truly great photos to show your friends on your return home.

If you’ve booked your safari through a reliable provider then you will no doubt be able to tap into the expertise of some really helpful and experienced guides while you’re there. It is still a great idea to read up before you go though, as this will give you a much better idea of what to expect when you actually get there.

Richard Estes

In particular, look out for things such as:

a. Weather conditions – plan your clothing and other items around this

b. Wildlife – learn about the wildlife and their basic characteristics so you will know what to expect when you arrive at your destination

c. Types of photographic conditions you might encounter – this will help to plan which equipment to take

There are different books for different countries, but one of our favourites is the Photo Safari Companion.

2 – Watch Some TV

Another great way to get prepared is to watch some of the fantastic documentaries which are out there – especially those made by the BBC, such as Planet Earth or Wild Africa – and these can be even better preparation than reading a book. These documentaries will give you a great idea of what kind of animals you are likely to see on safari, and what kind of things you would expect to see them doing. This will prepare you so you can understand when you are going to get the best photographs and can plan your trips around this.

BBC documentaries

3 – Make a List and Plan Your Packing

If you’re anything like me, you probably tend to leave your packing until the last minute, but it’s really important that you don’t do this when you are going to Africa for the first time. If you’ve invested in a good safari companion guide, this might give you a pre-prepared packing list. Otherwise, think carefully about what you will need when you are there – nothing ruins a safari quicker than realising you’ve forgotten something important. Planning your safari packing will also make sure you don’t take too much.

4 – Sort Out Your Health

MASTA Travel

Nothing will ruin a safari quite like being ill, so make sure that you pack everything you think you might need, especially if you are on medications. You also need to make sure that you get all of the appropriate travel vaccinations for the area you are going to, and some good travel insurance in case anything does make you ill. MASTA Travel is one company we always recommend our clients to go to if their local GP does not offer a travel clinic. You will be welcomed by knowledgeable physicians who will make you even more excited about the trip and at the same time ensure that they can assist you in making this a wonderful holiday from start to finish.

The real key to getting the most out of your safari is to research and plan, which I’m pretty sure you will be only too eager to do if this is your first time. We regularly run photography safaris to Africa, so if you’d like any more info from us about planning your trip, please get in contact with us.